Friday, 27 September 2013

Project 8 - Stage 1 - Exploring the Qualities of Yarns

Over the course of this assignment my learning curve has been, yet again, enormous.My knowledge of yarns before embarking on this project was based solely on how they looked, if they were the right colour and thickness for whatever I was knitting I didn't stop to think too much  more about it.  My preference was for pure wool but in the case of yarn I have been swayed more by the price and more often than not have ended up with acrylic.  In my reading for this project, and the gathering of materials I have learned so much.  My leanings are still towards more natural fibres but I can see that there is an important place for blends and recycling man made fibres.
I have enjoyed very much experimenting with things I would never previously have thought of as being fibres, things like paper twine and raffia and also the wonderful selection of natural twines I found to be available, things like jute, hemp and sisal.

Part 4 - Textile Structures - Analysing Colour,Texture and Proportion

Handwoven tapestry from MMF AB -- "Karneval". Tapestry weave variant (gobelängvariant). Pattern designed in 1961. By Märta Måås-Fjetterström, Marianne Richter

I've always been fascinated by the idea of taking something that is essentially a straight line and transforming it into a flat plane so I was very excited to begin this section of the course.  This is really why I started the course in the first place.
I found the exercise about analysing colour and proportion immensely helpful, although at times I became frustrated that I didn't possess exactly the right shade or texture of yarn to make the windings into the perfect representation of the pictures.  I ended up doing four of these exercises and I can see that it makes a wonderful jumping off point for taking a drawing and translating into a textile.










Project 7 - Research Point

The Work Of The Textile Artist

The work of artists, designers and craftspeople is so tightly wound together that it has become very difficult to give the 'correct' label to one person.  It seems to me that the majority of people working in these ways take on so many 'jobs' themselves that to label them only as an artist or only as a designer is somehow belittling what they actually undertake.
Unfortunately nowadays it feels that labelling someone as an 'artist' is somehow insinuating that they are hands off, an artist in the modern way comes up with an idea and employs a team of more skilled craftspeople to make it a reality.  Equally to call someone a designer gives the idea that they sit at a computer and use expensive software to create an image that another maker will bring into existence.  Even more unfortunately using the term 'craft' calls to mind cross stitching and scrapbooking and that slightly twee approach to the handmade.
I think perhaps some new word is needed, some official job titles, less unwieldy than artist-designer-maker!
The two textile artists I have chosen are Abigail Doan and Amy Gross.  I struggled for a long time with this, trying to decide whether either or neither might be considered textiles artists, eventually deciding that as they both work with fibre and textile techniques that they must, therefore, be textile artists.

Abigail Doan calls herself an environmental fibre artist.  She works with recycle, reclaimed and found fibre.  She is best known for her Fibre Flotsam bundles and art installations.  She works as an advocate for sustainable fashion and eco-friendly textiles.  Her pieces are made from the discarded and disused and serve as 'a means to create sustainable solutions and visual links to the global challenges we collectively face.'

Amy Gross calls herself a mixed media artist rather than a textile artist but she works with fabrics, bead, applique and embroidery so to my mind she qualifies to be included here.
Her interest lies in taking a man-made material or item and turning it into something that looks natural.  She creates tiny environments and landscapes of roots, pods, insects and flowers in free standing sculptures.  Her work is about transformation.  Biomimicry has always appealed to me, something completely created but looking like it grew from the ground, and this is what appeals to me about the work of Amy Gross.

Both of these women are 'artists' but also far more than that, they design, they craft, they create.  Maybe textile art isn't accepted by the art world in general at an equal standing with other creative arts, but I'm not convinced it really has to be.  Although textile art might be seen as a specialization, there are so many smaller specializations within it that I feel it is perfectly able to stand alongside Fine Art as another umbrella term rather than being encompassed as all being art.

Wednesday, 18 September 2013

Assignment 3 Reflections

I have very much enjoyed this part of the course.  It was such an enormous relief to be finished with Assignment 2, which made me feel, for quite a long time, that I should just give up.  This project though restored my faith and I really loved doing it.  I also suddenly felt like I was getting to grips with working in my sketchbook in a more textiles focused way.

Another badly timed trip to France has meant that at times I have had to rush parts of the project, for example I would really have liked to have had time to work more with stitch in my applique.

I've been thinking about my themebook almost continually for the last few months.  My problem is never that I can't think of an idea, but always that I have too many of them.  I thought for  along time that i would choose something from the natural world and thought about beetles, caterpillars, bees, animal nests and coral reefs before I decided that the  natural world had been done to death.  Then I decided that I might use a book as my inspiration, but I have at least 20 favourite, favourite books on any given day and so I just couldn't settle on that either.  Then I thought I would use a place, as I hadn't seen anybody else doing that for their themebook and so I decided on New Orleans as somewhere I know quite well and is full of a huge amount of inspiration.  After I'd avoided starting it for quite a long time I realised that I just wasn't connecting to the topic at all and so my final, final decision is Cryptogams, which at first I thought meant crosswords, but turned out to mean all those plants that don't produce by seeding, things like ferns, lichens and fungi.
http://www.pinterest.com/luxetoile/themebook-the-third/

Research Point 3

Think About the Diversity of Textiles Which Are Craft-Based in Their Production

Moving on from the previous research point to this one it begins to seem obvious to me why craft-based textiles, and other crafts-person produced goods, maintain their place in a market which like any other is mostly cost driven.  
I believe that even in economically tough times people are willing to pay slightly more for an individual,  handmade, professionally finished product which will leave a lighter footprint upon the earth an won't be found in every single home they go into.
More and more, people are coming to realize that we cannot continue to consume our natural resources thoughtlessly and damage and pollute as we go without giving anything back and this is the attitude that I believe goes a long way to supporting craftsmen and women in their  many professions.
I believe that as more people turn to this way of thinking it will become the norm and when it does we will be on the right path to protecting our future.
The Fibershed project started by Rebecca Burgess saw her commit to an entire year of dressing omly in textiles that had been made by local craftspeople from locally produced fibre, within a 100 square mile area of Northern California, and she achieved it, along the way inspiring many others to make changes to their clothes buying habits.  To my mind this is an ideal way of living and a reason that we should all support our local craftsmen and women as much as possible.

Research Point 2

Investigate the Diversity of Style and Design in Textiles Available to the Consumer

The only way I could begin to approach this topic in my head was to begin to find out what textiles were available to me in my immediate local area.  I live in quite a small market town, and while there are three huge cities within about an hours drive, to me personally, with two small children and no car, they may as well be on the moon.
Focusing on our local area then became more and more depressing, people I spoke to told me story after story of the fabric shops, haberdashers and wool shops that used to be around but have in recent years vanished form our towns.  If I want to walk into a fabric shop in my local area the choice comes down to Laura Ashley and two different branches of Hobbycraft.  So 'the diversity of style and design in textiles' is, to this consumer at least, non existent.  The only thing available locally is either floral cottons or poly-cottons, occasionally a plain, and lots and lots of brightly coloured synthetic fleeces and nets.
Reading 'Techno Textiles' by Sarah E Braddock and Marie O'Mahoney was a real eye opener for me, I genuinely had no idea that there was such a huge range of scientific techniques and approaches that went in to creating textiles.  It was exciting and inspiring to read about them but they are just not fabrics I am ever likely to encounter.  My feeling is that if I one day want a contemporary finish to my fabrics then really my only option is to create them myself.  To this end I have found books like 'Textiles Now' by Druscilla Cole and 'Structure and Surface - Contemporary Japanes Textiles' by Cara McCraty and Matilda McQuaid hugely inspiring.
Perhaps this is why I find myself working almost exclusively in plain fabrics, especially natural calico, because the other options open to me really don't inspire me and at least if I start with something plain I can make it look the way I want to.  In addition I prefer to have as small a carbon footprint as possible, the synthetic  fabric market is something that I try to avoid as much as possible, I don't believe that the way forward is to create more and more production intense textiles.  I would prefer that everything I used were organic, unbleached and locally grown, hopefully one day that will be possible.

Friday, 21 September 2012

Joseph Alanen (1885-1920)

All images via A Polar Bears Tale
I can see these as woven picture, I think they would look absolutely beautiful.